AGFG Chef Hat Japanese restaurant Sydney Tag

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Umami is the fifth taste. Not sweet, not sour, not salty, not bitter — something else. The Japanese identified it first, gave it a name in 1908 (the word derives from umai, delicious, and mi, taste), and built their culinary tradition substantially around it. The compound responsible is glutamate — an amino acid found in high concentrations in fermented foods, aged proteins, kombu seaweed, dried bonito, mushrooms, and ripe tomatoes. In Japanese cooking, the cultivation and layering of glutamate-rich ingredients...

The most productive cultural exchange in the history of modern gastronomy is the conversation between French and Japanese cooking. It began in earnest when Japanese chefs — including some who would become the most influential in their country's culinary history — left Japan to train in the great kitchens of France in the 1960s and 1970s. At Bocuse, at Troisgros, at Guérard, they absorbed a rigorous approach to technique, a systematic understanding of sauce-making and flavour development, and a structural...